12/10/2023 0 Comments Atc guide skinny ropesOtherwise in a panic situation, one might be tempted to pull that handle without a redirect - which in a low friction situation might well be fatal. Chances are you won't need it, but it needs to be in place everytime. The re-direct ensues the rope exits the grigri over this surface, rather than into thin air.Because a lower might be an emergency situation (second stung by bees, hit on head by rock.), it is very sensible to place this redirect carabiner ready to go on the shelf (or equivalent) when you start bringing the second up. The friction is normally provided by the rope exiting the device over the running surface. An open grigri offers very little friction. The Freino exists for this situation, but a normal (much cheaper) carabiner situated higher up on the anchor suffices.I'm not 100% sure what failure mode this is attempting to address, but my guess is that there are a few ways where the GriGri lever can get caught and stuck open while lowering in guide mode, and the redirected brake strand gives you enough friction to control the descent with only the brake strand.ĭavid, the redirect is 100% needed. The AMGA recommends redirecting the brake strand above the GriGri to provide further brake strand friction. Speaking of your brake hand, it's not right-hand dominant like most other. When the rope is weighted the angle of the device changes, locking the rope down, though, as we mentioned above, you still need to keep your brake hand on the rope. If you think work "teeth" are cause for retirement or make it unsuitable for lead belaying, you're going to sh:t your pants when you see the original ATC, Lowe Tuber, Sticht plate etc.Just a quick note here: lowering with the GriGri in "guide mode" might not be as trivial as just opening the lever. The Black Diamond ATC Pilot is a 'geometry assisted' belay device for ropes in the 8.7 to 10.5 mm range. a partner grabs the device, doesn't check the teeth, and uses it for lead belaying w/o realizing it's no longer meant for that). This is just my two cents and if any of you out there know what Im talking about and belay, or have belayed two climbers together up multipitch routes, May I suggest giving this device a whirl if your sick of soar elbows from pulling rope through these things. Also, consider this a "hack" - the manufacturer won't approve it, and there are risks with carryng such a device (e.g. The intended audience here is people who (have friends who) would consider using a Kong Gigi. "don't throw away" here doesn't mean "don't retire" - it probably *should* be retired for most purposes. Clip a spare carabiner (non locker is fine) through the ear of the device, then clip that carabiner to your belay loop. If you have a plaquette style belay device such as a DMM Pivot or ATC Guide, try this: feed the rope as for a normal rappel. To clarify, I'm only recommending this as a free alternative to buying a Kong Gigi - not for lead belaying (or rappelling if you're heavy). 2) Clip a spare carabiner to your device’s ear, then to the belay loop. An even more worn Reverso I own (no picture, but trust me it's more worn) is less smooth than this ATC. The Gigi's taller slots would still win with a thicker/stiffer rope, but probably not one that anybody would tolerate for lead belaying these days.īTW the ATC part is kind of important - it has taller slots than a Reverso, which means the rope isn't forced to bend as much. The force to pull seemed within measurement error (both 4-4.5 lbs) Rig for rappel through your descending device as usual, but then clip the rope through the biner on your leg loop as well. Another technique is to attach a biner through the harness leg loop that is on your brake hand side. I compared it against a Gigi using a 10.2 Edelweiss Toplight II, a cheap crappy rope - as stiff as anything I've seen recently that's new. Re: How do climbers rappel off very thin rope Re using multiple biners to increase friction.
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